My wife and I had always wanted to sail the Caribbean Sea.

Stories of Blackbeard the Pirate and erupting volcanoes had created an exotic mystique that was powerfully enchanting. We called our reliable Travel Agent and asked her what cruise line and ship she would recommend. The following is an account of our voyage.

We arose early(6 A.M.), packed and checked out of the Airport Swiss Hotel. A shuttle delivered us to terminal #2 and we checked our bags in at the Air Canada desk. It is a nice Hotel in the Toronto Airport, with free parking for the week. The 9 A.M. flight left on time.

Four hrs. & twenty minutes later, we landed at Juan Munoz Merin Airport in San Juan Puerto Rico. At 1 P.M., it was sunny, warm (85) and humid. The Airport was in a state of controlled chaos, due to the arrival and departure of thousands of tourists, many of them cruise ship passengers like ourselves.

San Juan is a major embarkation point for many ship lines on their Caribbean cruises. We retrieved our luggage, without incident, and were transported by a ship's bus, with our luggage, to the S.V. Horizon. It was berthed at the cruise ship terminal, near old San Juan.

From dockside, The ship looked like a large skyscraper with lots of small windows.We checked in and boarded at 2 P.M. and were assigned cabin # 5082 on the "Europa Deck". The cabin was fairly roomy, with two portholes, twin beds and spacious closets and drawers. A mariner had designed this vessel.

Everything was compact, with tight seals for rough weather. Yet, it had space to breathe. We unpacked and chilled out in the air conditioned bubble in which we were to float for the next 7 days.

Afterwards, we roamed about this 12 story juggernaut and were duely impressed. Two salt water pools, a sun deck and a well equipped health club, replete with hot tubs, occupied the top deck. Two open bars and the Admiral's lounge dispensed non-stop mood adjusters. You could sign for any beverages, with your assigned room charge card.

There were also several other cocktail lounges scattered throughout the ship. An 800 seat Paladium show lounge held nightly live entertainment. A full scale gambling casino, shopping area and various other entertainment facilities worked mightily to amuse the passengers. Lectures, games and other activities seemed to run continuously. The main dining facility, the Starlight Dining room, is a formal affair, that had an early and late seating (6:30 & 8:30 P.M.) .

A more casual " Coral Seas cafe ", with an open patio on the upper deck, rounded out the commodious dining facilities. This was some operation! We had a late lunch in the Coral Seas lounge and returned to the cabin, to finish settling in. It was breezy and cooler, with a promise of rain.

Later in the afternoon, we trooped up to the health club for a workout and then lolled in the open air hot tub. It is a nice life. After dressing for dinner, we stopped by the excursion desk and signed up for three onshore excursions.

Some trips sell out early, so you might wish to sign up for a chosen excursion on the first afternoon. Dinner that night, in the Starlight Restaurant, was casual dress and open seating. We were seated with three couples from Dayton, Ohio. They were very nice.

The Salmon appetizer, Consomme, Finlandia salad, Mahi-Mahi Fish & Raspberry Mousse were superb. Service was attentive and pleasant. This week is going to be a belt stretcher! After dinner, we walked about topside. It was in the 70's, warm and muggy.

We watched the TROPICALE & VIKING SUN disembark and head out to sea, at 10 P.M. They looked like brightly lit behemoths edging gingerly from their concrete tethers. Later in the voyage, at sea, they would look like fluorescent inchworms slowly traversing the distant Horizon. We were delayed until after midnight awaiting passengers whose flights had been held up. In the cabin, the beds were turned down and a mint placed upon the pillow.We had a bottle of Chardonnay on ice from our travel agent, Pat Hyatt. You could get used to this life style in a hurry. We read for a while and fell asleep before the ship left port. We were tired and happy to be here.

Easter Sunday,April 11-at sea near the Virgin Is.

We arose early. The ship's motion and engine noises take some getting used to. At 8 A.M., we assembled in the Galaxy Lounge for a Catholic Easter Service.

Afterwards, we breakfasted on the open aft deck of the Coral seas lounge. It was a beautiful morning, breezy and warm(82 degrees at 9 A.M.) We were sailing lazily amidst a dazzling coral blue sea.. We walked seven laps around deck 12 (1 mile) before reporting for mandatory lifeboat drill at 10:15 A.M., Our lifeboat stations were in the Mall area of deck 8. Everyone wore the bulky and gaudy orange lifejackets with good grace.

We listened attentively to the steward, with the realization that we were a small island in a very big sea. What was being said, in four languages, might well save your life. At 11:00, we attended a helpful information session on shopping for Martinique, Barbados and St.Lucia.

Noon found us in the health club for 35 minute on the exercycle & rowing machines. Eight laps around the deck completed the workout. It was 85 degrees , cloudy, windy and very humid. We laid out in the sun on the aft deck, like fish in a pan, for 45 minutes, before heading into the Coral Seas Lounge for lunch.

What a life ! Fresh fruits and salads, with a hot entree, was standard fare. Rarely was there a major wait and service was friendly. It was cafeteria style and very relaxed. We repaired to the cabin to cool off, read and pay homage to Ozzie Nelson (nap). Later, we had a swim in the salt water pool. It rolled side to side with the sea. Then, a long sauna proved very relaxing. At 7:45 P.M., we met in the Paladium Lounge for the Captain's cocktail Party.

We were introduced to the Captain and his Senior Officers. It is a very nice tradition. Dinner, at 8:30 P.M. & the second seating, was our preference. Dress was formal, although dark suits were acceptable in place of tuxedos. The many tuxedos and evening gowns gave the dinner a festive affair.

We were seated with couples from N.Y. City, Chicago and Montreal.The food was exquisite. Crab appetizer, corn soup, salad, lobster thermidor and apple tort, with Chardonnay and good coffee, proved a memorable repast. After dinner, in the Paladium Lounge, we enjoyed a live review of "A Salute to Oscar" by the Matrix dancers, from London. It was a colorful and energetic performance. Neil Buford, an adult comic was also entertaining. By Midnight, we were very tired from a full day.We turned in. The roll of the ship was a little more familiar and made sleeping easier.

MONDAY-APRIL 12, Martinique,W.Indies
aboard S.V.Horizon

We awoke at 7 A.M.. We were off the coast of Martinique. The island appeared to be very hilly and undeveloped.

We had breakfast in the Starlight Restaurant. It was very good, but not as quick as the Coral seas. Also, you had to be "properly dressed" to eat there. After changing into shorts, we set off for a 1 & 1/2 mile walk to the center of town. It was very hot and humid, even at this early hour.

Litter and a ramshackle appearance characterized the harbor area and the center of town. There are no trash bags in Eden, I guess. The visual cues were all very French, but the area had the run down aura of colonial Polynesia. The palm trees and the Parc were picturesque, the bums weren't.

We shopped in "Roget Albert", the premiere luxury store. Then, we stopped in a McDonald's for coffee. Here we found an interesting cultural anomaly. We were spending French Francs, speaking in French in what appeared to be an American fast food restaurant. Yet, when we ordered the quintessential French beverage of choice, cafe' aulait, we were given a cup of regular coffee and a pint of milk. Go figure.

The employees did not speak English at all. Crossing over to the Harbor area, we boarded the "Somatour" a cross harbor Ferry, for 24 FF ea.($10). It was a pleasing cruise across the bay, to a small beach and hotel area.

The beaches were topless and occasioned a few comments. We stopped at one of the beachfront hotels and had a Perrier on the veranda for 35 FF ($6). The ultramarine lagoon, with palm trees and beach, reinforced the notion that we were in Tahiti. It was beautiful. It was very hot, so we walked around the beach some and wandered through the few available shops, looking for trinkets. At 12:30, we boarded the return ferry. It was a breezy and beautiful ride on the bay. It took us a thirty minutes forced march to reach the ship.

The air was hot, humid and the harbor area was a visual eyesore. The air conditioning of the ship was delightful. We lunched in the Coral Seas Cafe and returned to the room for a nap. The combination of heat & humidity is enervating .

Around 5:00 P. M., we went up to the health club for 30 min. on the exercycle, 10 on the rowing machine , 8 laps around the deck, a sauna & shower. We felt good and relaxed. I had an interesting conversation with a Colombian national in the sauna. He apparently knew the owners of the vessel, a $180 million English consortium. She was Greek skippered and Liberian flagged. About 37 nationalities crewed the vessel.

There was a cool breeze topside. We had a Heineken & a Coors($3.ea.), while we watched the Carnival and the Costa Rivera slip their moorings and head out to sea. At 7:00 P.M, it was already very dark. We returned to the cabin and readied for our 8:30 Dinner seating.

On the way to dinner, we walked through the 8th deck casino and shops. The Salon had the aura of studied nonchalance, like cruise ships everywhere. At dinner, we had lost the couple from Chicago. Len was a N.Y.C Dentist and his wife Lee a book illustrator. The Canadians, were an accountant and a nurse. Mushroom appetizer, cream of mushroom soup, salad, salmon and lemon tort, with Chardonnay and coffee, were all exquisite.

The casino lured us into its bowels and we played some video poker and the slots, winning a few dollars. They are loser's games, but diverting for a short time. We caught the tail end of a comic hypnotist in the Paladium Lounge. He was very funny and it was a great routine. The seas were running rough, and we were tired from the day. No hanging off chandeliers for us, we retired early and read.

TUESDAY,APRIL13th-BARBADOS,W.Indies

At 7 A.M. , it was sunny, warm & 88 degrees, with 5' seas and a 15 knot wind from the S.E. .

We had a leisurely breakfast on the aft deck of the Coral seas. Over coffee, we watched two towering cruise ships, nudged into their berths at Bridgetown harbor, by powerful tugs. It was like watching sheep dogs running a flock. The 3 minute shuttle ride to the terminal left at 8:45 A.M. . There, we boarded a tour bus for the Harrison's Caves excursion.

A pleasant ride through the central hilly region of Barbados brought us up to the 1,000' elevation. There, a complex of shops led us to an adit (mine opening), where we boarded mining cars on rubber wheels . We then proceeded to the 150' descent, on paved paths, through the limestone cavern.

A myriad of stalactites and stalagmites were artfully backlit. They gave an eerie lunar appearance. Small, crystal clear pools, with milk white calcium bottoms, gave off a phosphorescent effect. The guide told us that 1cubic inch of stalactite took 120 years to form.

We stopped at several places for pictures and admired the stark lunar beauty of the caves. On the way back to the ship, we watched cane cutters using their machetes in the field. Whew, in this heat? The housing for the local populace appeared to be fairly good, with electricity and running water to all homes. There were many churches and small wooden rum shops.

The driver said, with a hint of amusement, that the ratio was about one to one. The Island produces rum, sugar, oil and gas for export. Water is precious and the metal roofs and water barrels, for collecting runoff, are ubiquitous.

The tour bus dropped us off in Bridgetown, the island capital. It was overrun with automobile traffic. We took the obligatory photos of Nelson' s statue, in the central square, and wandered around the harbor. It appeared very prosperous, but not too scenic.

We walked down the road a piece and found a beach front bar, where we stopped for a club soda. (1.50 U.S). The Barbados dollar is worth two for one U.S.. A Grass hut, palm trees, cobalt blue skies and aquamarine sea drew a portrait of tropical beauty .

The South Seas do not have much on these islands. We caught a cab for $4, to the shopping complex of Pelican Village, near the harbor. Many local arts and crafts were offered. It wasn't all T-Shirts and banana hats. The shuttle took us back to the ship, where we bathed in the blessed coolness of the ship's air-conditioning.

It was in the 90's and very humid. After lunch in the Coral Seas cafe, we saw " Forever Young ", the afternoon movie in the Paladium lounge. A one hour nap was welcomed. Later in the afternoon, we did 25 min. on the cycle, 10 on the rower and 10 laps around the deck. It worked up a good sweat.

A Heineken and a Coors again tasted wonderful. We watched the mighty tugs, like powerful terriers, nudge the floating monsters into the channel. A sauna & shower readied us for dinner.

Dress was casual, with no jacket. Salmon appetizer with quail egg, shellfish consomme', salad, filet of Tipalia(fish), mint mousse with Chardonnay & coffee were on the menu . We are not going to leave here, ever! Dinner conversation was lively and interesting. We exchanged our daily experiences and observations.It is a pleasant way to unwind from the day and get to know people from many places.

Topside was decorated festively, in preparation for a midnight buffet. The Onyx band played a deep Caribbean beat. One could hear the far off echo of African drums that gave the rhythm its force. They had a pretty extensive R&B repertoire and were pleasant to listen to, if a little loud. It was balmy and warm as we walked about the top deck. It is a nice feeling. We were tired with the day, so we turned in at 11:45.

The ship was rolling like a hog in a wallow. Apparently, the designers had sacrificed the stability of a deep and angular keel for the increased port accessibility that a shallow draft allowed. It seems like we have been at sea for a long time.

WEDNESDAY,APRIL 14th- Off St.Lucia,W.Indies 

Arising early at 6 A.M., we espied St. Lucia through the porthole.

The grand and petit Pitons rose pointedly above the forested canopy. The coast line was hilly and rugged. With low hanging clouds and mist, it looked like a warm Norway.

It was warm & muggy out at 78 degrees.

We had a late breakfast on the aft deck The ship entered the harbor and berthed in Castries, the capital . We disembarked and walked a mile, over to a new shopping complex, Point Seraphine. It was on the other side of the harbor. It was nice and clean, with trendy shops. I got sunglasses for $3, on a closeout.

Walking back through town, we detoured through an open air market and warehouse complex. It looked like a typical West African Village market. People sat on blankets and sold 5 mangoes, three potatoes, or a single bottle of beer or tube of tooth paste. It looked like the" squeeze ", from the harbor, filtered down to the residents, in small parcels.

There wasn't much outright begging, but the poverty level was pretty depressing. The gutters, along the streets, were very deep and wide, like New Orleans. There must be some pretty heavy seasonal rains and runoff. We came upon a beautiful, old wooden church, The Immaculate Conception. It was airy, with a vaulted ceiling . It had a curiously nautical effect. The altar area was designed like the Captain's aft cabin on a large sailing vessel. Perhaps it was some hint of the buildings provenance.

We retreated to the ship and it's air conditioned bubble, for some ice tea. Later, I engaged in a nose to nose bargaining session with Lambert Hillary, a local cab driver, over the fare to Rodney Bay.

We agreed on a rate and set off for Pigeon Point. It is an Interesting process, not for the easily intimidated. The roadways were loaded with cars and construction. At Pigeon Point, on Rodney Bay, the beach area was rough hewn . Atlantic rollers pounded against an old coastal fortification.

Vendors sold T-Shirts and curiously, banana hats. They are woven with banana leaves in a thatched pattern. On the return trip, we detoured through Gros Islet, an old fishing village. Ramshackle huts and a general aura of disrepair showed the reverse side of the Potemkin Villages that tourists usually see from the main highways. Many two man skiffs, with small nets, were lying about the shore. They are the preferred means of catching fish locally.

Back at the ship, we had lunch at the Coral Seas and an hour nap to escape from the heat and humidity. The ship left port at 4:15 P.M., sailing for Antigua. We stopped by the Health club for a 45 minute workout on the bikes and rowers. A shower, sauna and "barley sandwich" were relaxing. It was 7:25 P.M. and we were 5 miles off St.Lucia.

The shoal buoys winked rhythmically off to our starboard. It was warm & humid.

We decided to forgo dinner this evening . Instead, we went to the Zodiac Lounge to listen to some Dixieland Jazz and have a few drinks. We met and talked with Myra, the cruise recreation director. She was an F.S.U grad from Jacksonville, and a very nice young lady. Over at the Paladium Lounge, we caught the tail end of Beaufort the Comedian.

The Casino for Video Poker and slots proved a fool's errand.

We retired early and read, before retiring early.

THURSDAY, AUGUST 15- ANTIGUA,W.Indies

The rolling of the vessel gently awakened us at 6 A.M. .

Shortly, we saw landfall, the Island of Antigua. We had an early continental breakfast, as the vessel berthed in St. John's Harbor.

A brief morning shower greeted us as we got ready for our snorkeling excursion on a local cattamaran., at 8:45. The sloop was a twin hulled, single masted sailing vessel, with auxiliary diesels . She had a pretty good crowd on board. We motored for thirty minutes to the offshore reef. It is some 26 miles in length, and surrounds the island.

After dropping anchor, we fitted out with snorkeling gear and jumped into about 15' of water. A variety of colored aquatic life drifted amidst the brainshead and skeletal shaped coral.

The reef teemed with life. The swells were rolling pretty good and it was a little difficult to swim very far. Mesmerized by the show beneath the waves, I drifted somewhat far afield. Swimming back, it was easy to become disoriented. There were several catamarans in the area and all appeared similar from the water. As luck would have it, I swam to the wrong boat and the furthest away.

The swim back was a little difficult. I realized that you could get into trouble pretty quickly, if you weren't careful. Once everybody had climbed back aboard, the Captain broke out the rum punch. We met and chatted with Fred and Sheila from the English midlands. They were on a six month tour of the U.S. . He had broken a leg in Idaho and been laid up for some time. Bill & Mary Jo were from Connecticut. She was a School Superintendent. They were very pleasant.

The rum loosened everyone's tongue and we had a nice conversation. On the way back, we glided into Paradise beach and most of us got off to walk and enjoy the surf. The sky, water and sand were as beautiful as Aruba. Again, who needs the south seas?

We returned to the Horizon, showered off all of the salt and met Fred & Sheila for lunch in the Coral Seas cafe. We had a pleasant conversation. While walking through St.John, after Lunch, I negotiated a Taxi driver down to a reasonable $30 fare. This, so that he would run us over to Admiral Nelson's historic Dockyard, on the other side of the Island.

The Dockyard and ship's repair facilities were much in use when British Admiral Horatio Nelson stormed across the Caribbean. Now, they are a collection of tourist type shops and an upscale cafe. Still, a few chandleries serviced the ships, in this deep water and secluded harbor.

There are many huge private yachts berthed here, with registries from many nations. They are stately and graceful vessels, that bespoke of the wealth that owned them.

We returned to St. John's and browsed through the many upscale shopping boutiques. In the WEST INDIES ICE COMPANY, we found a beautiful emerald ring for Mary's birthday. It was very reasonably priced and the ship's tour director had assured us that this store sold quality merchandise. Back aboard Horizon, we repaired to our cabin for a nap.

A brief shower at 4:30 P.M. preceded our 5:10 departure for St. Thomas. Antigua is clean and prosperous like Barbados. It might be worth a longer look sometime. In the early evening, we did our routine at the health club and walked seven laps around the top deck.

It was sunset, balmy and mild. A red glow on the Horizon backlit Mt. Liumaga on nearby St.Kitts. It was a picture perfect sunset. Dinner again was formal attire. It may sound tiresome, but it is nice to see everyone dressed up after wearing beach attire all day. A shrimp cocktail appetizer, cream of tomato bisque, Caesar salad, lobster tail and flaming, baked Alaska, accompanied by a St. Francis Chardonnay & coffee, made another memorable repast.

The waiters brought in the flaming baked Alaska, in a procession, to the collective applause of the appreciative diners. The Paladium lounge offered a song and dance production, entitled "Twilight Zone". It was pretty decent entertainment.

By 11:30 P.M., we were tired and turned in. Heavy lightning, pouring rain and good sized swells lulled us to sleep. I occasionally had to check the porthole for icebergs. Another couple told us the next day that they had enjoyed a late night drink in the Admiral's lounge, top side . They had gotten a great lightning show out over the waves. I still think that I would be looking for ice bergs.

FRIDAY, APRIL 16-ST.THOMAS,U.S.Virgin Is.

At 6 a.m., the ship entered the cruise ship dock area, about 2 miles outside of Charlotte Amalia.

It was sunny and warm at 7:30 a.m.

We took pictures topside and breakfasted on the aft deck of the Coral Seas Lounge. At 9 a.m., we boarded a 12 passenger van for the ride up to Drake's Landing. At 1500 feet, it is the highest point on the island. It has a beautiful view of St. John's and Drake's passage.

A gift shop complex and restaurant, atop this spot, provided shade and a restful observation platform. We met an interesting fellow passenger. She was the widow of a British colonial civil servant. She had spent many years in East Africa.

Next, we stopped at "Great House", a botanical garden in formation. It has a terrific view of the harbor area from a beautiful house, donated to St. Thomas, by the Johnson & Johnson Company. The roads had impossibly steep grades and made for interesting travelling. Forget this at night!

The van let us off in Charlotte Amalia and we browsed through this monster shopping center. It is about 6 square blocks of jewelers, curio shops and has all manner of wares for sale. Even NYC doesn't have this dense a commercial center.

We stopped for a club soda at "Arby's" bar. It is a 2nd story, open restaurant, with a beautiful view of the harbor. Bright blue seas and sky were everywhere.

The traffic was a dense conga line stretching through the town and its approaches. Later, we stopped by the post office to mail cards. After dodging the persistent and annoying hawkers, we walked the 2 miles back to the dock area. There, we found another complete set of expensive stores worth browsing through. It was hot and we were tired.

We returned to the ship for lunch and a one hour nap. Later, we performed our health club ritual . After a sauna and shower, we had a beer and a pina colada while watching the ship get underway.

We watched 3 other cruise ships leave port and had a nice talk with a couple from Boston. It was warm and humid at 7 p.m. These accidental conversations, with people from all over, are one of the more enjoyable experiences on a cruise.

Dinner was casual, for the last night. Salmon appetizers, cream St. Germain pea soup, salad, red snapper filet and orange custard cake made a terrific final meal. Tonight, everybody tipped the waiters, busboys, cabin stewards and maitre d' . They were understandably all smiles and very solicitous.

After another one hour musical production, in the Palladium Lounge, we returned to the cabin to pack. We then placed our bags outside the cabin, for shipment to the port terminal. We kept one small with us bag for incidentals. We crashed, tired with the day. We were ready to go home.

SATURDAY, APRIL 17 - San Juan, Puerto Rico

We arose early. (6:15) and prepared for departure.

Breakfast at 7:45 a.m. was a little chaotic.

We talked, topside in the Admiral's lounge, with a couple from Conn. We were waiting to be called for departure. The vessel unloaded one deck at a time. You then claimed your luggage in the terminal and boarded a bus for the airport. The process was relatively hassle free.

After arriving at the Airport, we checked our bags in at the Air Canada terminal, of Jose' Merin Airport.

Thus unencumbered, we hired a cab for the ride back to Old San Juan, for $15. El Morro Castle is a massive stone coastal fortification that has guarded San Juan Harbor for 3 centuries.. It provided great vistas on a breezy and warm day.

People were flying kites, picnicking and enjoying the park area that approached the landslide of the fortress.. Then, we walked through the narrow streets of Old San Juan. We stopped at Cristobal Colon square, harborside and at a taco shop for a beverage. Another taxi ride returned us to an airport mob scene. With no problems, we boarded our Air Canada flight .

After 4 1/2 hours, we touched down at Pierson International Airport, in Toronto. It was a very cold forty degrees, rainy and windy. An airport shuttle returned us to our car at the Swiss hotel parking ramp .

Much to our chagrin, we found that the car battery was dead. A resourceful bellhop found a pair of jumper cables and got us going. We tipped him $20.

The two hour drive to Buffalo and passage through U.S. Customs was uneventful. Groggy with travel, we arrived home at 10 p.m., read the mail and crashed.

SUMMARY

The cruise was a pleasure. Food, service and presentation were superior.

The accommodations were comfortable, with a surprising amount of closet space.

Several of the onshore excursions were interesting and worth the value, others were not.

Walking everywhere about is more interesting than bus tours.

The islands are hot and humid. Judicious cooling off periods, during the day, are recommended. So are afternoon naps.

The later dinner seating allows more time ashore and a relaxing early evening before dining. Forget the midnight buffet, unless you have a cast iron stomach and burn calories rapidly.

A daily routine in the health club is relaxing and helped negate the caloric overload of three full meals . The vessels activities are very well organized, but you need to plan "your routine" to maximize opportunities for sightseeing. We would take the cruise again , tomorrow!

Caribbean cruise and travel magazine