Getting Around St. Thomas is Half the Fun

Glide through lush green vegetation on tortuous winding mountain roads set against a backdrop of sapphire and emerald colored waters.
Getting around the U.S. Virgin Island of St. Thomas is only half the fun and can take many forms.
All the major auto rental rental companies are represented on the island so you can take advantage of any frequent flier tie-ins and discount programs available to you. To guarantee a vehicle, you should call ahead because a reservation may be required.
If you are accustomed to spacious US roads you're in for a shock. Seriously consider departing from your usual large vehicle and opt for a small compact. Not only are they cheap on gas but are actually better when trying to maneuver in limited space. Finding a precious parking space and driving the narrow roadways is much easier. You'll appreciate the added ease of negotiating those blind curves, hidden driveways, sudden stops and slowdowns of the vehicles ahead of you, small or nonexistent shoulders on the side of the road, road craters and bumps, swerving to avoid vehicles in your lane and all the other assorted reasons for giving up part of your roadway including, but certainly not limited to, hikers, people meandering down the road, the occasional goat or cow, and wide trucks, taxis, busses and cars. Seat belts are required by law and dictated by common sense.
All this must be taken into account as you re-orientate yourself to driving , turning, and parking on the left side of the road.
Even though the highway directional signs might be missing at key points in your journey, your frazzled nerves can at least rely on your attempts to stay on your side of the ever present yellow center dividing line. Keep your other eye on the white line on your left. It indicates the edge of the road and the possible absence of any additional terra firma, the beginning of a long slide down a mountain side , a private driveway, a guardrail 6 inches away from you that is bent out ever so slightly towards you, visually impenetrable vegetation, the side of a hill, a house, a road sign or a parked car, truck or taxi.
Speed limits are 20 in the city and 35 on the highways out of town. You need not worry about exceeding the limit until you become experienced because the traffic and roads automatically do that for you.
If you prefer to leave the driving to other presumably more experienced drivers you can still enjoy the roller coaster thrills on a multipassenger open air safari type taxi, an enclosed air-conditioned taxi van or large sleek modern publicly operated air-conditioned Vitran busses.
Those high safari taxis are ideal for initial tours to get an overview and sense of direction.
Comfortable enclosed taxi vans or automobiles are preferred for nighttime transport to the many resort or stand alone restaurants and night spots in the downtown area or on the island's east end.
The Vitran busses stop at numerous, marked convenient locations throughout the city and countryside and safely expose you to just a little bit more of the real day-to-day lifestyle.
To find the posted rates, review the widely distributed Visitor guides. Those established rates alleviate the irritating feeling of being victimized by those intentionally confusing condescending taxis drivers prevalent in other countries. You find nothing but pleasant and helpful drivers here.
City traffic is bumper-to-bumper around noon and 5pm, so avoid those travel times unless you want to see the city, one foot at a time, from the comfort of your auto.
Impromptu, or the published preplotted self-guided walking tours of the Capital Charlotte Amalie is a welcome relief to motorized conveyances. Make sure you also go into the country and walk around the many small village- like congregations of buildings which sprout up around beaches, ferries, highway intersections and other attractions.
Start your walking and shopping tour downtown by parking in the public lot next to Fort Christian. There should be a space left early in the day but don't wait too long. Downtown parking spaces near the action are in very short supply. Illegal parking will cost you $25. Enter the Fort, built around 1671, on the side of the building that faces away from Veterans Drive, which is the main driving drag called highway 30. Climb the stairs to the roof to overlook Vendors Plaza where T-shirts, costume jewelry and leather goods are sold. You also can't miss the mint green Italian Renaissance Legislature Building and the Caribbean Sea across the road. There are many restaurants and roadside areas where you can get bigger and better views, so don't feel bad if you want to bypass the Fort for now and charge directly to Main Street where a good chunk of the Island's 400 stores are clustered.
If the streets and sidewalks are too crowded (or not crowed enough for you), ask a friendly looking merchant to show you their list of ships in port. Usually 2 to 6 cruise ships or large sailboats are scheduled to be in town for the day. The congestion, excitement and salespeople adrenaline will flow accordingly with the volume of people disembarking from the ships to shop. While soaking up the flavor of Main Street don't hesitate to veer off toward the sea and go down the many passages, alleys, gades and malls which jut off Main Street. You'd miss half the action if you simply follow the shops down to the Library, cross the road and then head back to the spot where you began.
After your shopping ardor and curiosity are cooled a bit, relax at Blackbeard's Castle. Your hot feet and wallet will appreciate it. The tower there was built in 1679 by Captain Edward Teach, the infamous blackbearded pirate, to watch for approaching ships. You can do the same, but do it from the restaurant, its much more comfortable, and you'll get the same wonderful view.
If all this hedonistic consumption is wearing on your spirit, the Gothic revival style Fredericks Lutheran Church, dedicated in 1793, is open for viewing 8am to 5pm on Mondays through Saturday , and for services on Sunday.
If you are still up to it, take a walk up 99 steps. Notice the brick steps. They are the ballast from the bellies of Danish sailing ships which carried settlers to the area in the early 1600's.
If you get really tired in the hot sun: don't worry, be happy! There will be plenty of taxis around you. Every minute or so they'll crawl by in the traffic and ask if you're ready to go back to the ship even though you may have gotten there by air.
Merchant's signs and their street hawkers will also be continually enticing you into their store to check if yours is the lucky cabin number that wins their prize. After a short while you'll wise up and stop telling them you didn't come by ship, you'll simply say no thanks.
Shopping the many fine stores is not a haggling nightmare . All stores are eager to pull out their merchandise from under the lighted showcases and immediately tell you the discounted price. The quoted price is at least one half of the sticker price and it's not unusual if it's one third or less.
If you linger long enough, some merchants will take off another 5-10% off the already lower stateside price. If you look really interested, but indecisive, they may also offer you a free beer or soda which sometimes feels better than a discount when you've been trudging through all those stores searching for the perfect gift.
As they are quick to point out, sizing of rings is no problem. You can get it sized beautifully within the hour.
It took 50 years for the US to finalize the $25,000,000 purchase of the islands from Denmark in 1917. Your transactions will be much speedier. Major credit cards and traveler's checks are readily accepted. Agree to pay with cash and you might wrangle another 2-3% off the final discounted price. Since the island runs on US currency, there are no conversion problems either on the charge card statements or in your head when trying to get the best deal possible.
Because the U.S.Virgin Islands (U.S.V.I.), composed of St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix, are US protectorates, each family can purchase an average of $1,200 per person duty free. That is double the amount available elsewhere. The limit can include up to 5 cartons of cigarettes and 5 fifths of liquor. You can buy an extra fifth of liquor duty free if its Cruzan rum, Brugal Rum, Havensight Liqueur, Chococo or 100 proof Southern Comfort which are produced there.
Sales tax does not exist which helps on jewelry purchases. Most consumables are shipped in though which raises the cost of meals, clothing and other items especially lodging. If you fall madly in love with the place, as many people do, real estate is no bargain either.
After shopping all day you'll want to be on the move again the following day. The Danish settlers which you hear most about came by slow boat. For the modern water enthusiasts, there are all sizes, shapes and combinations of power and sail boats from individual or group charters to inter-island ferries.
The 20 minute ferry from Red Hook on St Thomas, to Cruz Bay on St John is a bargain at $3 each way. For $7 you can take the longer 45 minute ferry from Charlotte Amalie to Cruz Bay.
Unusual sightseeing transportation includes 10 minutes for $50 or 20-30 minutes for $110 in a helicopter. Or take a $68 3 hour combination harbor boat cruise and submarine tour.
If flying is more your cup of tea, a diversion to St Croix is as close as a 25 minute $44 one way trip by air.
Bring along your proof of citizenship if you decide to visit the British Virgin Islands by ferry. It's $28 round trip for a 40 minute ride to Jost Van Dyke. A $30 round trip fare will get you a 30 minute ride to Tortola or a 1 3/4 hour ride to Virgin Gorda.
However, the major reason all us cold weather escapees travel is to lay on warm, sunny, sandy beaches. Some of the best beaches in the world are in The Virgin Islands.
On the north shore of St Thomas, Magens Bay has a huge beach on the bottom of the U shaped bay. It's is undoubtedly one of the world's most photographed beaches. The rock free sandy bottom extends evenly and far out into the bay. Surfers can get action at Hull Bay. Coki Point beach boasts great snorkeling due in part to the fish drawn by the nearby underwater park and the feeding they receive from the numerous people learning to snorkel and scuba dive.
Other beaches are in abundance from the Capital in the center of the Island around to the east side. Sapphire Beach is popular on Sundays, drawing an active young crowd to hear the live bands at the resort's seaside bar. During the week it thrives on families who come for the sea, the sand, great view towards St. John, Thatch Cay (pronounced "key"), Grass Cay and the yachts and sailboats heading for the adjacent marina.
Morning Star Beach draws a more genteel crowd seduced to it by the elegant hotels nearby.
St John is loaded with absolutely gorgeous beaches and views on its northern side. Two thirds of the island is National Park Service land, courtesy primarily of Lawrence Rockefeller who donated the land. Trunk Bay on St John is the site of a marked underwater snorkel trial.
Beware if you see what looks like a small black, and sometimes white, koosh ball in the water . It is a sea urchin whose barbs can inflict a painful sting.
In all cases, check the visitor guides to determine availability of restrooms, showers, restaurants and beach equipment because a wide diversity exists. Incidentally, nude bathing is rare at all beaches.
Swimming will give you the appetite of a horse but dining can be simple or elegant depending upon your taste and budget. Once again Visitor Guides contain complete information on location, decor and price. Restaurants on the hills or in town can deliver a breathtaking view of the city by night or the city and sea by day but you have to search out the ones with views. Cuisine varies from local Creole dishes to french, oriental, Italian, or typical American fare. Look for special events such as steel bands, limbo dance contests, broken glass walking and Caribbean shows.
Tennis and golf is alive and well on St. Thomas (sometimes pronounced "sont toe moss" by the refined or the snooty, depending on your viewpoint). However, I would limit spirited tennis matches to early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat which you traveled great distances to enjoy.
Wherever you are, if you get lost, don't panic. The Island is only 13 miles long and three miles wide. The natives, which can be of African, oriental, or European descent are usually helpful and pleasant. But, it seems that a lot of people have never laid eyes on a map before.
It helps that they speak English, but sometimes it may not sound at all like what you are accustomed to. The local dialect removes the "h" in "th" so that it becomes "tis" for this and "tat" for that.
Everyone on the Island seems to be prompted to say good morning, good afternoon or good evening. You will eventually exchange those greetings for your usual hi or hello. You take that away with you when you eventually must leave and head home. This adds a little bit of charm and elegance to an already classy place.

By : Richard Meeuwsen

Caribbean cruise and travel magazine